Papago women engage in a Toka Tournament
Ron and Vicki Sullivan
Less than a two hour drive from Quail Creek is the Tohono O’odham Nation. The Tohono O’odhams have resided on their land since time began. Before history was written, these people were known as the Hohokam. The Spanish referred to them as Papagos.
For as long as anyone can remember, women in the tribe have gotten together outdoors on shimmering afternoons, smacking at two oblong pieces of wood tied together with leather and swinging a curved stick with no flat surface at the end. It is reminiscent of the stick used in the game of ringette. The Tohono O’odham Nation today is reviving these toka tournaments. Very popular in the 1800s, it is a women’s game and the toka field is off limits to men.
It begins with a gathering of all the women who, with their mesquite sticks, stand in a circle and sing their cultural song. It is sung only by women and only before the toka tournament. Prior to the contest each team approaches a shrine where they leave their traditional wagers, shell beads or even Gatorade.
Toka takes somewhat of a turn toward hockey or lacrosse. The similarity stops here! Two eight woman teams face off and the referee drops the puck. The sticks are five to six feet in length with a u shape curvature at the end. This allows their sticks to hook the puck and fling it downfield towards a goal.
Two things you need to remember: The Sonoran Desert sand can be blinding as the women with Toka sticks in hand pursue the wooden puck. There are no sidelines, which means if you are watching you are on the playing field. Blinded by the sand, you may be caught between the players and the goal. In one respect following the game as a spectator is easy. Just look for the sand devils’ swirling eddies or listen for the players’ roars. Caution is warranted. Watch out for the gopher holes, ground creatures, and towering saguaros!
The women who play say, “They are just a bunch of friends from all parts of the Nation and they banded together as teams.” Sometimes the opponents are from other regions like San Xavier Reservation, Akimel O’odham, or from nearby neighboring districts.
Throughout the morning teams battle up and down the desert floor, trading off victories. The women enjoy the coming together and the competition. After the contest the winning team picks up the wagered bounties left at the shrine.
For more information about the Tohono O’odham Nation, visit www.tonation-nsn.gov.
Ron and Vicki Sullivan reside in Quail Creek. They are Mata Ortiz pottery traders and support Native American cultures.