Music without Borders

Gertie Lopez. Photo by Katherine M. Hanna.

Gertie Lopez. Photo by Katherine M. Hanna.

Ron and Vicki Sullivan

If bands like the Joaquin Brothers, Los Papagos Molinas and the award winning Tohono O’odham Band Gertie and the T.O. Boyz excite Quail Creek music lovers, then venues for waila, also known as chicken scratch, are just a short drive away.

The term waila comes from the Spanish bailar, meaning to dance. Chicken scratch comes from a description of traditional Tohono O’odham dance which involves kicking the heels high in the air, which supposedly bears a resemblance to a chicken scratching.

Waila is the traditional social dance music of the Tohono O’odham Nation. Drawn from the Mexican norteña tradition, though strictly instrumental, waila musicians play polkas and mazurkas in bands that typically include saxophones, accordions, bajo sexto or electric guitar, electric bass and drums. Vocal accompaniments are added to the more contemporary performances.

The very popular waila group Gertie and the T.O. Boyz boasts the only female band leader in the Tohono O’odham Nation. Along with leading the band, Gertie Lopez sings vocals, plays guitar, bass and accordion.

The current style of waila is about 100 years old and constantly evolves. Early musicians played the fiddle. Many Tohono O’odham attended boarding schools with military style marching bands and brought brass instruments home to add to waila bands. The saxophone became a favorite instrument and it remains a waila band staple.

Experience waila on a weekend in late May at the annual Waila Festival in Tucson. Since its inception in 1989, the event has grown every year and now fills the Bear Down Field at the University of Arizona. Dance to original rhythms and eat traditional food of the Tohono O’odham at this outstanding heritage celebration.

The internet provides listening and viewing platforms with several you-tube sites showing performances of local waila bands. Tucson Events calendar is another source. Waila bands have also performed at San Xavier del Bac Mission and National Saguaro Park West.

For more information about the Tohono O’odham Nation and waila music, visit www.tonation-nsn.gov.

Ron and Vicki Sullivan reside in Quail Creek. They are Mata Ortiz pottery traders and support Native American cultures.